Post by moon125 on Nov 8, 2024 23:14:31 GMT -5
Somehow, unnoticed, I almost stopped multiplying the number of my disks (both CDs and DVDs). I don't buy new music or movies - I have everything you know where , and I use a flash drive and an external hard drive to transfer data and store backups.
However, over the years of active use of CD/DVD, I have accumulated (and I am sure that not only I have) more than a hundred of them. Many interesting things and secrets are hidden there , and therefore sometimes you still have to turn to them. The disk is taken out of some (usually the farthest) corner, taken out of the box, blown and gently laid on the CD-drive tray of the computer. But... often instead of the expected information, film or music, disappointment follows - the information is partially or completely unreadable.
What to do in such cases? Well, first of all, to prevent such situations, you need to follow simple rules - do not touch the bottom side, do not scratch or bend the disk, do not leave it in direct sunlight, near heating devices, or in dirty, dusty or damp places.
Store the disks only in special boxes. If you shopify website design still need to put them on a table (clean, of course) - only with the label UP. The aluminum layer on which the data is stored is protected from below by a 1.2-mm layer of polycarbonate, and from above - only by a thin layer of varnish. In addition, on the bottom side there is a ring-shaped protrusion 0.5 mm high, allowing the disk, placed on a flat surface, not to touch it.
It is strictly forbidden to make inscriptions with ballpoint and fountain pens and pencils. Do not stick labels - they can shift the center of gravity of the disk, which will lead to increased vibration during rotation and (as a consequence) destruction of the disk.
But this is all, so to speak, prevention. By the way, it is not always effective. It happens - you carry around some disk as if it were a written bag, and after a month it is “unreadable”. Therefore, of course, you always need to be ready for an operation to “reanimate” the disk.
In this article we will consider only mechanical and “chemical” methods of data recovery. But it is better to use them (except perhaps the first point) only after failure with attempts to solve the problem using programs.
1. Cleaning the working surface of the disc from dirt. To remove dust particles and fingerprints, use a clean, dry and soft cloth (preferably cotton - wool scratches plastic). Movements should be made FROM THE CENTER of the disc to its edge. Do not apply force or use cloths with increased abrasive properties.
Do not use gasoline, acetone or other strong solvents to clean the disc. They may react with the polycarbonate base of the disc, with the protective varnish coating and other layers. As a last resort, a dirty disc can be washed with warm water and soap (not recommended for cheap discs) or a special liquid. After that, rinse off the soap or liquid residue with plenty of water and wipe the disc dry with a soft cloth.
2. Polishing. To restore the transparency of the disc, it is often enough to polish its surface. When polishing, it is impossible to avoid the appearance of new, albeit very small, scratches. Since longitudinal scratches, the direction of which coincides with the circumference of the tracks, are the most dangerous, then the movements when polishing the disc should always be made in the direction transverse to the tracks (along the radius of the disc).
You should also pay attention to the cleanliness and smoothness of the surface on which the disc will lie - grains of debris during polishing can damage the reflective foil layer. It is best to use a piece of gl***. And also - do not overdo it when polishing - even with a little pressure the surface noticeably heats up.
As a polishing compound, you can use GOI paste dissolved in kerosene or white spirit, or regular toothpaste, half dissolved in water. Don't forget about bananas
3. Filling scratches. To fill scratches, you can use regular Pronto polish (other wax-containing ones will probably work, provided that the base does not dissolve the polycarbonate). You need to apply a little polish to the scratch and rub it with a soft piece of cloth - the wax will fill the scratch and practically eliminate the refraction in this place. All scratches from half a millimeter to the smallest are filled in this way. Such a “repair” is enough for at least a week - quite enough to make a copy.
4. Friction. Take a metal object with smooth edges (you can use a regular teaspoon). In places with scratches, very carefully “remove the top layer” (if you can call it that) by trivial friction. After that, polish the treated area with a piece of felt.
However, over the years of active use of CD/DVD, I have accumulated (and I am sure that not only I have) more than a hundred of them. Many interesting things and secrets are hidden there , and therefore sometimes you still have to turn to them. The disk is taken out of some (usually the farthest) corner, taken out of the box, blown and gently laid on the CD-drive tray of the computer. But... often instead of the expected information, film or music, disappointment follows - the information is partially or completely unreadable.
What to do in such cases? Well, first of all, to prevent such situations, you need to follow simple rules - do not touch the bottom side, do not scratch or bend the disk, do not leave it in direct sunlight, near heating devices, or in dirty, dusty or damp places.
Store the disks only in special boxes. If you shopify website design still need to put them on a table (clean, of course) - only with the label UP. The aluminum layer on which the data is stored is protected from below by a 1.2-mm layer of polycarbonate, and from above - only by a thin layer of varnish. In addition, on the bottom side there is a ring-shaped protrusion 0.5 mm high, allowing the disk, placed on a flat surface, not to touch it.
It is strictly forbidden to make inscriptions with ballpoint and fountain pens and pencils. Do not stick labels - they can shift the center of gravity of the disk, which will lead to increased vibration during rotation and (as a consequence) destruction of the disk.
But this is all, so to speak, prevention. By the way, it is not always effective. It happens - you carry around some disk as if it were a written bag, and after a month it is “unreadable”. Therefore, of course, you always need to be ready for an operation to “reanimate” the disk.
In this article we will consider only mechanical and “chemical” methods of data recovery. But it is better to use them (except perhaps the first point) only after failure with attempts to solve the problem using programs.
1. Cleaning the working surface of the disc from dirt. To remove dust particles and fingerprints, use a clean, dry and soft cloth (preferably cotton - wool scratches plastic). Movements should be made FROM THE CENTER of the disc to its edge. Do not apply force or use cloths with increased abrasive properties.
Do not use gasoline, acetone or other strong solvents to clean the disc. They may react with the polycarbonate base of the disc, with the protective varnish coating and other layers. As a last resort, a dirty disc can be washed with warm water and soap (not recommended for cheap discs) or a special liquid. After that, rinse off the soap or liquid residue with plenty of water and wipe the disc dry with a soft cloth.
2. Polishing. To restore the transparency of the disc, it is often enough to polish its surface. When polishing, it is impossible to avoid the appearance of new, albeit very small, scratches. Since longitudinal scratches, the direction of which coincides with the circumference of the tracks, are the most dangerous, then the movements when polishing the disc should always be made in the direction transverse to the tracks (along the radius of the disc).
You should also pay attention to the cleanliness and smoothness of the surface on which the disc will lie - grains of debris during polishing can damage the reflective foil layer. It is best to use a piece of gl***. And also - do not overdo it when polishing - even with a little pressure the surface noticeably heats up.
As a polishing compound, you can use GOI paste dissolved in kerosene or white spirit, or regular toothpaste, half dissolved in water. Don't forget about bananas
3. Filling scratches. To fill scratches, you can use regular Pronto polish (other wax-containing ones will probably work, provided that the base does not dissolve the polycarbonate). You need to apply a little polish to the scratch and rub it with a soft piece of cloth - the wax will fill the scratch and practically eliminate the refraction in this place. All scratches from half a millimeter to the smallest are filled in this way. Such a “repair” is enough for at least a week - quite enough to make a copy.
4. Friction. Take a metal object with smooth edges (you can use a regular teaspoon). In places with scratches, very carefully “remove the top layer” (if you can call it that) by trivial friction. After that, polish the treated area with a piece of felt.